Indonesia | Jan 15-16 2023 |
Day 2 in Sumatra, here's where the ride got very interesting. Woke up to 15C in Berastagi, with a great view of the town and cloud-covered valley below it, with classic Indo volcanoes Mt. Sibuatan and Mt. Sinabung in view. I headed out from Kaesa Guesthouse, targeting Ketambe, about a 4 hour drive into the center of the island. About 30 minutes out of the town, I realised I was right beside Sinabung, a very wow sight up close, with clouds rising around it and steam rolling down from the peak. This is a very active volcano, that has been in the news consistently in recent years. The British travel advisory website advises citizens to avoid close proximity. The road wound around the volcano for about 45 mins of riding, so I got great views (and I am still here).
After about 1 more hour of very scenic riding past rolling foothills and rice terraces, the road came down into a flood-plain valley of the Alas River, which it follows north, mountains on either side. This is start of the famed Gunung Leuser ecosystem and national park, one of the world's greatest nature reserves, home to orangutans, tigers, rhinos, elephants and much more. Honestly, when I set out for the day, I had no clear idea I was riding into this....The ride from there just got better. The valley narrowed, river became fast, and it was wall-to-wall jungle.
After a quick stop for lunch (and obligatory photo shoot), I made it to Ketambe, a tiny village with a few homestays. I booked into Wisma Cinta guesthouse, $12 a night, family-run - awesome. Next went for quick a ride, and 100 meters up the road stopped to take a picture of the river. A local standing nearby said something to me about orangutans, I thought he was a tout trying to pitch me a trek. He pointed up to the trees, to a mother and baby orangutan above. Now, please consider: most visitors to Ketambe go on multi-day jungle treks for the sole purpose of seeing an orangutan; I was seeing one for free, without having made any effort to do so - made my day. Aside from the orangutan, in my first hour in Ketambe I also saw 2 types of monkeys and a couple of freakishly huge insects (pill bug and hornet).
After one of the most peaceful nights a person could have in Sumatra (no mosques, no roosters, no dogs), I got up and went for a hike into the jungle above my bungalow, following a trail map I found online. Not a great idea, as the trail basically disappeared and this was serious jungle. I saw another type of monkey up there, this one sporting a punk-rock mohawk.
Stayed one night in Ketambe, but should have stayed longer. It's a special place. Given Indonesia's fast-paced development, and the massive resources in this region, it will be interesting to see how the future plays out for this area. The photo below shows tree coverage decline in Sumatra, a bleak forecast for the future.
Ride: 176 km | 4.5 hrs
Stay: Wisma Cinta | $12 | 4/5 - fan, no hot water
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