Apr 20-21 2024 |
Day 3 on the road in Vietnam, here are details of the scenic ride from Coa Bang to Bao Lac, via Pac Bo.
Cao Bang > Ban Giang
As I write this a while after the ride, I don't recall anything particularly memorable from Cao Bang to the intersection towards Pac Bo at Ban Giang. Don't get me wrong - it is a nice and standard very scenic road through stunning mountains, just like everywhere in that area of Vietnam.
Ban Giang > Pac Bo (and back)
The ride to Pac Bo is a worthy diversion off the main route to Bao Lac, a great road up a narrow valley, 30 minutes or so. Located near the China border, Pac Bo is famous for its cave where Ho Chi Minh and comrades were based and strategized their plan to bring Marxism into Vietnam (HCM was there for 7 weeks I later read - not that long, but all things considered, it is a cave, not the Four Seasons). The site is now a national historical treasure, hosting bus-loads of local tourists. I rode into the parking lots, looked around, and departed (as previously mentioned, me and caves/temples/waterfalls are not a perfect mix).
Diversion to Pac Bo and Ho Chi Minh's cave
Quick aside: riding back from Bac Bo, at the junction towards Bao Lac, I nearly dropped the bike; as I applied the brakes, slowed down, and started to turn the corner, there was a distinct scraping sound and my front wheel almost slid out from under me. Once I ground to a halt and (barely) regained control, I noticed my tire was skidding on the jawbone of some type of medium-sized animal (not human, I hope), as if I had a frisbee under my tire.
Jawbone under my wheel
Ban Giang > Bao Lac
The next section of the road, Ban Giang to Bao Lac, was some of the best riding I experienced in Vietnam. It was pretty much constant jaw-dropping sights, craggy mountains, green valleys, little traffic on the road - rider nirvana.
Scintillating views between Cao Bang and Beo Lac
Closer to Bao Lac, the terrain became drier, the road twistier, and downright challenging in one section. Here, there's a multi-hairpin segment up a mountainside, about 10 turns, with an even more exciting offshoot up a cliff (I didn't "go there").
Heavenly ride up the curvy mountain road, and an extreme local trail
The other side of the mountain was precarious, steeper, and under construction. This segment was downright scary, featuring both loose gravel and medium-sized rocks, many trucks, and dust. It was slow going for me, constantly trying to avoid skidding, dropping the bike, or worst-case - an accidental shortcut over the edge.
The hell ride down the mountain near Bao Lac
From there, it was not far to Bao Lac. It's a nice small town, a river running through it, with many tribal people and their amazing attire. I booked at Sunny Hotel on Agoda (and later saw Vietnam Coracle recommend it). It's a decent place and the owner - Sunny - is really pleasant (I know this is totally politically incorrect, but if Sunny had been up for it, well gol' darn it!...) There were a few other riders staying there, who had taken multiple different routes, so I got some good tips for my plan the next day. That night there was an insane storm, with house-rattling thunder that went on for minutes at-a-time, many times, along with a world-class torrential downpour and extreme winds - all hell broke loose (I learned more and experienced the results the next day....).
Effervescent Sunny; cinnamon bark drying on the riverbank at Bao Lac
Ride: 117 km / 5 hrs
Stay: Sunny Bao Lac Hostel & Homestay $15.5 / 4/5
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