Nov 10-11 2022 |
Here's where the real adventure begins, both as a tourist and on this moto trip. This is my trip number two to Laos, having first gone there in 1999, short stays in Vientiene and Luang Prabang. Stoked to be back.
Setting out from Chiang Rai for the border, I still wasn't sure if I would actually be allowed in to Laos. In preparation, I had joined a couple of Facebook groups dedicated to Thailand riding, borders, etc., and also got some good direct inputs from expat riders I met in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. But, the border status was changing regularly, whereby different things were happening at the four border crossings. Some riders were being allowed in, some not.
Regardless, I rode to Chiang Khong crossing, cleared Thai immigrations, then rode through the vastest no man's I have experienced, that has a long diamond shape intersection where lanes cross at both ends, from Thai left lane, to Laos right lane. Followed by a bridge over the Mekong. Nice start.
First up at Laos immigration was visa on arrival, done easily, $40. Next came customs clearance for the moto, which also went surprisingly fast and easy. As I walked to my bike to ride away, the dreaded final step occurred, whereby a friendly man in plain cloths runs over, and asks you to come up to the "tourist police" office. I had been briefed on this process, which was to not agree to anything, and if required, pay no more than B500, though the going rate can be as much as B2000. Anyways, the police bro brought me to an office on the second floor, where an older policeman in uniform sat at the next desk, staring forward, trying to look serious. They hit me up for B2000. I countered "B500". Soon thereafter, to expedite the process, I feebly caved in to their demands, gave them B2000. Onwards.
Things shifted from Thailand mode to Laos mode, including dust, broken pavement, many trucks emblazoned with Chinese characters. And most surprisingly, a very unique smell, decomposing something.
I rode to my destination, some nice views, but nothing spectacular, to Luang Namptha, a failry dusty, pot-holed town, for one night.
Ride: 280km | 6 hrs (with border crossing)
Stay: Phou lu III Bungalows | $25 | 3/5
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