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Sumatra: Ketambe > Takengon

Indonesia | Jan 17-18 2023 |


An epic route. Set out from Ketambe at 11:00, planning to stop overnight on the way to Takengon, about 7 hours away. The road followed the Alas River, through the heart of the Gunung Leuser park, a thin valley between mountain ranges.

After 2 hours, reached Blangkejeren, stopped for lunch. Was soon in a different ecosystem, Sumatra tropical pine forest. Began what may be the longest hill climb I have ever seen - it went on and on, higher and higher, non-stop twists. The temperature dropped, needed to stop and put on a sweater and gloves. Barely saw another vehicle. Seriously, this must be one of the world's great unknown motorcycle routes. This region is known as Gayo country and famous for Aceh coffee production. I saw a Binturong “bearcat”, though it was roadkill. Also saw a group of giant hornbill birds - always a unique sight. The road descended into another narrow river valley that looked like the interior of British Columbia.

Thanks to the comfortable NMax, I kept rolling, thinking Takengon must be close. I had definitely had enough of epic twisty mountain riding for the day. And then, as it was becoming dark, cold, and rainy, I hit another epic twisty mountain climb. Fortunately, on the other side of the peak, in the valley below, was Tekengon and the big lake it is on. It was dark when I got there, and I needed to bang on the door of a guesthouse to get a room.

The next day I was up early, the manager had bought me breakfast: the Indo stable Nasi Lemak, along with 3 doughnuts that I didn’t need, but, of course, ate. Got some nice views of the lake from the guesthouse, then moved on towards Banda Aceh - another big day of riding.


Ride: 322 km | 7 hrs

Stay: El Jadid Homestay | $18 | 4/5


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