Phillippines | Oct 7-8 2024 |
Section 1 of my Mindoro Loop ride. Technically, this is not a route; as of October 2024 you won't find it on Google Maps or similar. Reason being: a bridge is washed out and a section of the road around it are rough. The hand-drawn map below left is my actual route. Beside it the Google Maps route - a 10 hr ride due to the alleged-to-be impassable 4 km section of bridgeless, gnarly road. But, where there is a will, there a way (or just business as usual for the locals).
After a week of great diving in Puerto Galera (PG), I was ready for a drive (ride). Rented a KTM 390 Adventure from Chris at SSD Motorcycle Rental (highly recommended) and set out to do the Mindoro Loop, one of the Philippines' most famous moto routes. As a dedicated scooter renter in SE Asia, the KTM was not my standard steed, but it was pretty clear that a scooter was not optimal for the PG to Abra de Ilog "roadless" segment. Also, I was keen to try a KTM for the first time, and the 390 Adv model intrigued me as I had owned a BMW 310gs, a direct competitor of the 390.
Prior to departure, I asked around about the road conditions and found Mindoro Island Motorcycle Loop Adventures a Facebook page with status reports of the river crossing and road. The ride looked feasible, but it was clear that I needed to do a large river crossing where a bridge was no longer. The notion of dumping a newish KTM 390 in a river crossed my mind, but it all seemed worth the risk.
From PG, things started ok, decent road, nice views of the rugged north coast, with a bit of rain.
Then, about 10 km out, the road became poor, very rough and washed out.
Next up: the river crossing. On first view, it appeared to be farther across than I anticipated. I watched a trike come from the other side, it made it through following a path of shallow water. So, there I had proof it could be done (perhaps a slight advantage with 3 wheels). A gang of local teenagers offered to carry my bike across for a fee. I declined, but did pay them to port my bags and to run on either side of the KTM and prop it up if necessary.
Once ready to go, I took a deep breath and plowed through to the other side, no issues.
Not long after, the horrible section of road got back to normal. I passed the ferry terminal at Abra de Ilog port, where many Luzon riders start their route around the island. From there it was good road, nice views, little traffic.
I stopped at Sablayan and stayed the night at Sablayan Adventure Camp, a great place.
Ride: 150+ km / 4 hrs
Stay: Sablayan Adventure Camp $30 ***
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