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Laos: Muang Hiam > Phonsavan - North East Loop

Nov 15-17 2022


After the uneventful stay at Muang Hiam, the next stop on the North East Loop was Phonsavan, home to the Plain of Jars.


To start the trip, I rode 30km in the wrong direction. Once that was sorted, off I went on a 7 hour ride. The roads gained and dropped some serious altitude. Views were amazing, sometimes 5 or 6 layers of mountains. And this is a Hill Tribe center, with villages perched on the top of mountains.


Phonsavan turned out to be a dusty market town, not at expected parity with the World Heritage Site nearby. But understandable, given it was bombed to obliteration by the US in the Vietnam War (including the archeological site, as demonstrated in the photo below, where a large, now tree-filled crater is 50 meters away). Regardless, I wasn't there to visit the town, per se. Next day set out to the Plain of Jars sites 2 & 3, the less visited ones. And indeed, they were worth the $2 price of admission. These are must-see archeological sites, in amazing settings. And no tourists. No doubt, the Plain of Jars adds an additional layer of mystique to Laos.


Ate at a bomb-themed restaurant dinner day two. Even more disturbing when you see the real thing, up close.


Two NSW-plated DR650s were parked at my hotel the morning I left, pulled in late. One had the same Wolfman tank bag as mine, and similar Mosko bags. Good endorsement for our respective choices.


Stayed two days at Phonsavan, recovery from last long ride, and prep for the next.


Ride: 247km | 7 hrs

Stay: Sipanya Guesthouse | $5.5 | 4/5


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