Thailand: Chiang Kong > Laos: Huay Xai

Nov 2022 |

Setting out from Chiang Rai for the border, I still wasn't sure if I would actually be allowed in to Laos. In preparation, I had joined a couple of Facebook groups dedicated to Thailand riding, borders, etc., and also got some good direct inputs from expat riders I met in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. But, the border status was changing regularly, whereby different things were happening at the four border crossings between Thailand and Laos. From what I read, some riders were being allowed in, some not, it depended on where you were from, border was open or closed that day - weird variables

Regardless, I rode to Chiang Khong crossing, cleared Thai immigration and customsj, then rode through the vast no man's land featuring a long diamond shape intersection where lanes cross at both ends, from Thai left lane, to Laos right lane, followed by a long bridge over the Mekong.

First up at Laos immigration was a visa on arrival, done easily, $40.

Next came customs clearance for the moto, which also went surprisingly fast and easy. I showed my Singapore bike registration, DL, IDP, filled in some forms (I am editing this 2+ years later, honestly, I don't 100% recall what I filled in - though it was easy)

Then the dreaded shakedown I had read of began: as I walked to my bike to ride away, a friendly young man speaking good English and wearing plain clothes approached me and requested I follow him to the "tourist police" office. He took me upstairs and sat down beside a stern-looking older officer in uniform who said nothing. He then informed me that I needed to pay a fee to enter, and if I didn't want to pay, I needed to hire a guide to ride with me for the next month. Per the guidance I had read online, a person should not agree to anything, and if you do, then do not pay more than 500 baht, though the going rate can be as much as 2000. They hit me up for 2000; I countered 500. Soon thereafter, to expedite the process, I feebly caved in to their demands, gave them 2000. The show must go on!

I later thought about this whole process and realised that, as I was already cleared immigration and customs, I could have just laughed at the little man, and rode on by into Laos.

After the shakedown by the fake police, I was told I needed to buy insurance, also on second floor. I bought a policy - written in Laos - for about $10, Allianz I think.