Apr 25-26 2024 |
Section 6 of my north Vietnam journey. Here's an update on the ride from Ha Giang to Coc Pai and great stay at the later.
Where to from Ha Giang town?
From Ha Giang, my next "known" destination was Sapa, a couple of rides away (unless I was to go full-on iron-butt, which I didn't want to do). Google Maps was showing a route on the QL2, the main road, along with a turn-off at a place called Tan Quan onto the DT177 that runs up towards and parallel to the China border. I went with the this option, it looked more exciting to me. I didn't have a fixed end point when I started, but I thought I would guage my time and look for a place to stop along the way. And that worked out well.
The first section was about 1 hour straight south from Ha Giang. A nice ride, quite a bit of trucks and traffic, nothing particularly wow along the way that I recall, aside from a decent Bun Cha for lunch at Tan Quan before I turned off the main road.
Tan Quang > Hoang Su Phi > Vinh Quang
From the turn off at Tan Quang I took the DT177, which was in construction for long stretches. Soon into the ride you enter Hoang Su Phi, a major tourist area (I learned of along the way) known for rice terraces and eco-tourism. Looked nice, but I didn't make a diversion to explore further. This section ended at Vinh Quang, a nice town along the Chay River.
The renowned Hoang Su Phi area
Vinh Quang > Coc Pai
This area is bit off the grid, no traffic, older road. Amazing views along the Chay River.
Great views on the road from Vinh Cuong to Coc Pai
Coc Pai
One of the better places I experienced in Vietnam, I could/should have stayed longer than 1 night in Coc Pai. The setting is amazing, built on a steep mountainside. The town has numerous indigenous groups selling their wares. And, importantly, I didn't see a single tourist. Stayed at the excellent Nung Gia Homestay, where I was the only guest, $5 night. The view is amazing on the back deck. For some reason, Coc Pai had the best data connection I got in Vietnam, fast and strong.
Nung Gia Homestay - exceptional
Breakfast was a highlight: the lady running the shop gave me a good lesson on how to eat Ban Cuon; I piled a heap of chili paste onto my plate; she walked over, took the spoon out of my hand and authoritatively scooped it all back into the chili container - a good example of what makes the Vietnamese people what they are - and then showed me the right condiments to mix (I would have been cool with chili, but when in Rome). And, oh yeah: she was an absolute stunner!
Banh Cuon for breakfast - no chili paste, but a chill up my spine
Ride: 142 km / 5 hrs
Stay: Nung Gia Homestay $5 / 5/5
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