Apr 29-30 2024 |
Section 8 of my north Vietnam journey from Sa Pa to and stay in Mu Cang Chai. One of the top rides/stays of the trip (yes, I say the same thing on nearly every post!)
Departing Sa Pa
After 3 nights in Sa Pa I was keen to hit the road again. It's a long climb out of town with decent views back of the town, valley, and Fan Xi Pan, the highest peak in mainland SE Asia, which the route winds around. There's a statue at the top - the big religious symbol I had seen in Vietnam. Coming down the other side of the mountain, I hit a big traffic jam - Sa Pa tourism in action.
Up and over north of Sa Pa
Smoke was bad and views of the terrain not clear. This was the case most of this ride. Per AirIQ, the majority of fires were across the border in Laos.
From the end of the long climb/descend out of Sa Pa, you enter an area of tea plantations on both sides of the road. I didn't try the tea along the way, but the scenery is awesome and framed the ride for the next 120 minutes or so.
Tea plantations
Aside
Gassing up is always fun in Vietnam, where the typically female attendants follow a standardized dress code, are always genuinely happy to see you, and like to engage in sassy banter using their very limited or non-existent English language skills.
Gas lady
Past the tea-growing area, the road forks into a sparsely populated river valley that continues on for about 100 km to Mu Cang Chai. It's a classic windy road, decent tarmac and little traffic.
The Mu Cang Chai region
Soon after, the views go from good to excellent as you enter the Mu Cang Chai area, famous for its rice terraces, a major tourist draw.
Into Mu Cang Chai region
Deserted Mansion
About 1 hour out of Mu Cang Chai town, I made an interesting discovery. I needed to stop for a bio-break, so I turned off up a hill on a nice paved road thinking there would be some views and privacy up there. At the top I found a baroque mansion, not a person in sight. Aside from being a huge, luxurious villa, it also had a world-class toilet, which I used to its full potential. The views from there of the surrounding valley were amazing. This place had all the trappings, like made beds and power. I considered staying the night, but came to the reality I was in the backwoods of Vietnam and could possibly disappear as easily as I found this place.
Abandoned mansion and views
Mu Cang Chai town
Mu Cang Chai town was nothing - but everything. If that makes any sense to you, we are on the same page. I stayed at Homestay Ha Chau, a family-run guesthouse, in a bedroom down the hall from the other 6 or so people in the family living there. I had tea and watched TV with the father/owner, who couldn't speak a word of English. Dinner at Thuy Lin Restaurant was one of the most memorable I had in Vietnam, where the manager spoke amazing English, was a great host, and servi great rustic local food. There is also a unique area of town off the main street, a place I accidentally rode into on my bike and 99% of tourists would probably miss, that appears to be colonial-era buildings, very cool. To top off the night, I bought a chocolate bar, from Russia I think, that was one of the best I have ever had.
A few scenes from Mu Cang Chai town
The next morning I came across a gathering and celebration of hill-tribe people. After seeing minority people as tourist entertainment or on the margins of society in Sa Pa, it was great to see this ceremony for hill tribe people, by hill tribe people, in Mu Cang Chai.
Hill tribe gathering
Ride: 138 km / 4 hrs
Stay: Homestay Ha Chau $10 / 5/5
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